Iwate Part 2: Half a Day in Ichinoseki

The final part of my Tohoku journey, and the learnings it brought along the way.

After a tiring but thoroughly enjoyable day at Hiraizumi, I spent the final day of my trip exploring my base city of Ichinoseki. Quieter than most cities I’ve been to, Ichinoseki is located on the southern border of Iwate, with Miyagi Prefecture right next door.

The skies were cloudy and raindrops dotted the week, but the season had also left behind vibrant greenery all across Iwate, and Ichinoseki was no exception.

The view from my hotel. Photograph by Sabah Merchant.

My first destination was the Former Numata Family Samurai Residence. A short walk from Ichinoseki station, it’s a small glimpse into the world of samurai during the Edo period. Tucked away in one of the residential lanes, the architecture of the surrounding houses complements it so well that you could almost forget the nearly 300-year gap between the two environments.

The Former Numata Family Samurai Residence. Photograph by Sabah Merchant.

There’s a guide who explains the structure of the house and its history in Japanese, but most of the artefacts present don’t need words to share their story. The carved drawers and stone kitchens leave behind an impression that I can’t forget even two years later, and the peace I found in the residence garden nearly sent me back in time, imagining the daily life of the household.

There’s no entrance fee to explore the residence, and the visit doesn’t take too long either, making this a must-see on any Ichinoseki trip, no matter how short.

Ekiben – the station bento. Photograph by Sabah Merchant.

After a delicious station bento lunch, my next destination was the sprawling Tsuriyama Park. It’s home to the Ichinoseki Hachiman Shrine – a tranquil place of spiritual reflection to while away the afternoon. All in all, the park was certainly a place I was looking forward to see.

But that was before I encountered the slopes and stairs.

You see, what my navigation app hadn’t mentioned was that this was no flat area like Yoyogi Park or Shinjuku Gyoen. Rather, Tsuriyama Park is a forest-like hill, taking you away from the city entirely with its sheer number of trees, size, and silence.

Ichinoseki Hachiman Shrine. Photograph by Sabah Merchant.

Finding the entrance to the park was not an easy task, and it was only through sheer luck that I found the shrine. The area is beautiful, to be sure, and is worth a long visit, but be very careful which entrance you use to enter the park.

With half a dozen paths leading in and out of the park, going up and down and inside and out, I spent much more time at Tsuriyama Park and the surrounding neighbourhood than I’d expected. After a long, long walk, I finally made it to the top, and was greeted with an absolutely breathtaking view of the city.

Ichinoseki as seen from Tsuriyama Park. Photograph by Sabah Merchant.

The park is more of a hill than a flat place to relax, but it’s also home to a wide variety of trees and flowers, particularly Japan’s famous cherry blossoms. Between that and the view of the city, Tsuriyama Park is a great place to walk around – as long as you know it’s not a flat garden. If you arrive through the entrance near the Iwai River, you needn’t worry about getting lost.

It was only after reaching the bottom and walking down one of the roads leading back to the station could I view the sheer size of the park I’d just visited. The park really is magnificent, but I think I’m happier on flat ground. Lesson learned: always check the terrain of any place you plan to visit, so that your planned leisurely stroll doesn’t turn into a literal hike.

The hilly Tsuriyama Park in the background. Photograph by Sabah Merchant.

Although my time in Ichinoseki was short, it’s definitely a city I’d love to visit again. And when I do, here are some more spots I’m keen to check out:

1. Genbi Gorge: While a bit far from the city centre and only accessible by bus or car, Genbikei, located in west Ichinoseki is a marvel of nature, with rocks and rivers and flowers to rival any other scenic spot in the world. It’s also famous for its dumplings!
2. Geibi Gorge: The names sound similar, but watch out! Geibikei is on the east side of the city, and can be reached by train via the Ofunato Line from Ichinoseki Station. Like its western counterpart, this gorge is brimming with natural beauty and intriguing rock formations.
3. Ichinoseki City Museum: You didn’t think I was going to exclude a museum, did you? A short walk from Genbikei, the museum provides a comprehensive history of the region from ancient time to the present. It also includes various themed exhibitions such as historical personalities from Ichinoseki, the history of scholarship in the region, and even maps from medieval Japan! The 2024 English brochure can be found here.

Saying goodbye to Ichinoseki. Photograph by Sabah Merchant.

With this comes the end of my Tohoku journey. After several days of traveling, exploring, shopping, and regretting, I returned to Tokyo, filled with a confidence and ease I never knew I had until this trip. I’d done solo day and overnight trips before, but heading out of Japan’s megacities was a new experience.

Since then, I’ve been more grateful for the frequency of Greater Tokyo trains, more observant of the world around me, and more willing to explore the world outside the urban sprawl of my home. I look for out-of-the way sightseeing spots and challenge myself more and more every day.

I hope I can return to Tohoku someday and discover someplace new, challenge myself to explore the countryside even more than I have already and achieve things I never knew I was capable of.