Aomori in August: History, Culture, and a Break from the Summer Heat

I’ve written about it before, but here’s the story of my trip up north – just in time for you to make your summer bookings!

Despite being from India and spending several years in New Delhi for college, I’d had enough of the Greater Tokyo Area summer temperatures by 2022, and decided to head up north for a brief respite.

Due to its even temperatures, I chose to visit Tohoku – the region of Japan that includes the prefectures of Akita, Aomori, Fukushima, Iwate, Miyagi, and Yamagata. All six are easily accessible via Shinkansen, so it was with anticipation and relief that I boarded the Hayabusa train from Tokyo station on the morning of 10th August, ready to spend a lovely day and a half in Aomori City, followed by two more in Ichinoseki.

A map of the Tohoku region, including railway lines and airports. Source: https://www.japan-guide.com/list/e1102.html

Having forgotten just how much in demand these summer trips can be, even with the borders closed, I was barely able to grab reserved seats before the trains were packed to the brim. Things were made easier, however, thanks to a stunning offer from JR East with a Tohoku rail pass that allowed me unlimited access on all JR East lines and Shinkansen reservations at no extra cost. If they’re offering anything like that when you plan your trip, get it. It’s worth the expense.

My middle seat ready, I first made my way to Shin-Aomori station, arriving in the early afternoon. Although Aomori prefecture is primarily known for its apples (stunning) and the Nebuta festival, there’s much more to the region than that. Aomori is rich in ancient and contemporary history, with stunning views of the coastline and sublime temperatures in the summer. While not as famous as the locations in my previous solo trip (Hiroshima and Osaka), Aomori called me and drew me in, showing me a side of Japan I hadn’t seen before, and giving me a new kind of confidence and open mind.

Thanks to the weather, almost all local trains were suspended that day, so instead of dropping my bags off at the hotel like I’d planned, I stored them at a station locker and took two buses (plus one very rushed transfer because the first bus departed late) to my first destination: the Sannai Maruyama Historical Site, an archaeological site containing a wide variety of artefacts and the remains of an ancient village.

Jomon-era arrowheads at the Sannai Maruyama museum. Photograph by me.

As a self-proclaimed history nerd, this was the place for me, but even the casual traveler can find something to love here. The Sannai Maruyama site houses artefacts from the early-middle Jomon era – dated between 3900 and 2200 BCE . Most people know the Jomon era for its pottery, but as the Sannai Maruyama site proves, there was much more to the period than that. The remains of this Jomon village were discovered in the 1990s while constructing a stadium, and have been carefully unearthed and preserved ever since.

Not only does the area contain an excavation site with building remains, replicas, and even burial mounds, the site is also home to an indoor museum containing smaller findings from various excavations: from animal bones and hunting tools to artificial replicas and informational videos, this site has everything you need for a basic understanding (and more!) of the Jomon world.

If you’re looking to satisfy a history craving, are curious about life in ancient Japan, or simply enjoy a long outdoor walk, then the Site is worth a visit. Watch out for the rain, though; the poor weather meant that I couldn’t enjoy the outdoor archaeological excavations as much as I did the indoor exhibits, but the site is very much still on my list for when I take my next trip up north.

Jomon buildings and replicas at the Sannai Maruyama Site. Photo by Kentaro Toma on Unsplash

After a very wet afternoon at Sannai Maruyama, I returned to my hotel for a short break before going out on the town – or rather, walking down a street in Shinmachi to see half the shops closed for the summer. Dinner was at an izakaya, where I used my limited knowledge of kanji to order a variety of small meals and an orange juice (which I’m sure confused the hell out of the very nice izakaya staff), and was followed by a long soak in the hotel baths that prepared me for the next leg of my travels (more on that in the next article).

Day 2 of Aomori was spent near Aomori station, as I immersed myself in the local culture and modern history of the city. First on my list: the Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse, home to floats featured at the annual Aomori Nebuta Matsuri.

While I arrived in Aomori too late to see the festival itself, the latest floats had just been installed in the museum, along with a history of the festival itself, and a short film featuring several prominent float designers over multiple generations. Even if you don’t know much Japanese, I recommend checking the films out for the visuals alone.

A float from the 2022 Nebuta festival, brought to the Nebuta Wa-Rasse museum just days before my visit. Photograph by me.

The best floats of the year are given prime place in the main hall of the museum, with another corner dedicated to a 30-minute “haneto” experience; to my delight, the museum staff presented a miniature version of the festival, complete with drums, flutes, a dancer, and chants of “rasse-rasse-rasse-ra!” (Hence the museum name “Wa Rasse”).

Although many museums had suspended or limited certain exhibits and experiences during the pandemic, they’ve slowly brought them back since 2022, so if you have a chance to watch this experience, it will certainly be worth it. When I visited the museum, we were shown a basic leaping dance step that we replicated with great enthusiasm, although we weren’t allowed to chant at the time. If it’s changed, do join in! It’s lot of fun.

After the museum and lunch, I ambled along the seaside for the better part of the afternoon, with only the Hakkoda-maru memorial ship left on my itinerary. During the Meiji and Taisho eras (1868–1912; 1912–24), Japan underwent a rapid modernisation, with various means of transportation used to connect different parts of the country, particularly islands like Hokkaido. The Hakkoda-maru was one of several ferries used in the 20th century to transport passengers from mainland Honshu to Hokkaido, in use until 1988, after which it was converted into a museum.

A view of the Hakkoda-maru memorial ship. Despite the cloudy day, the yellow paint was bright as ever. Photograph by me.

The Hakkoda-maru is filled with replicas of what life was like during the first half of the twentieth century: from contemporary Aomori markets and passenger compartments, to old films and engine parts, the ship has it all. For those interested in the more mechanical aspects, the tour route takes you through the engine rooms as well, explaining how the different parts of the ship coordinated with each other, and what were the specs of the engines they used. For those more into sightseeing and views, the top of the ferry allows you into its wheelhouse, from where you can get an amazing view of Aomori – although it was quite cloudy during my trip, it might be possible to get a sneak peek at Southern Hokkaido when the skies are clear. Give it a shot!

With some time (read: two and a half hours) to spare before my next train, I found myself walking along the seaside road, searching for more great views. Although I wasn’t successful (the lighthouse was behind a fence and everything else was too far away), I bagged half a dozen apple-related treats from multiple shops along my route. Aomori is famous for its apples, so if you have the opportunity to try one of them or any apple products (pie, juice, sweets, anything), don’t miss it.

Returning to my hotel, I grabbed my bag and took a – fortunately no longer cancelled – local train to Shin-Aomori station, from where I boarded a Shinkansen to Morioka, and from there to Ichinoseki. But more on that next time.

A commemorative sign of Aomori. The Hakkoda-maru memorial ship can be seen on the left. Photograph by me.

Spending twenty-four hours in Aomori gives you the chance to visit a lot of interesting locations, but if you have even more time to spare, here are some more of Aomori prefecture’s top attractions:

1. Hirosaki Castle: a National Important Cultural Property, Hirosaki Castle and its park are known for some of the best cherry blossom views in the spring. If you missed the season in Tokyo, you can still enjoy the cherry trees in Aomori, with flowers in bloom as late as May. If you drop by Aomori for Golden Week and drive south for about an hour (or take a train and walk for 25 minutes), you’ll have a good chance to enjoy some gorgeous pink cherry blossoms.
2. Lake Towada: recommended by Time Out Tokyo for its autumn leaves and gorgeous view of a mountain with the same name, Lake Towada is the perfect place to drive down to, if you’re looking for something after visiting the sites of Aomori City. The best time to visit is during the peak of the colour change around mid- to late October.
3. Oirase Gorge: looking for a new hiking trail? Then Oirase Gorge is the place to go. With its scenic waterfalls and proximity to Lake Towada, the whole region makes for a perfect day out from Aomori City.

…and more! Aomori is full of beauty and heritage, and I hope that summer 2022 isn’t the only time I ever visit the prefecture, because one day was certainly not enough.

Photo by Seiya Maeda on Unsplash

With the first leg of my summer travel down, I looked forward to the second half, particularly my visit to Hiraizumi, located near my next destination, Ichinoseki. But not only did my Ichinoseki trip make me wonder if I’d bitten off more than I could chew, it provided me with a renewed sense of gratitude for the Greater Tokyo transportation network. Stay tuned for hijinks, regret, and a lesson to never take convenience for granted.